If you don't keep an eye out for bagworms, you might end up with damaged, brown, damaged, dead shrubs or trees. Read on to find out how to detect and how to get rid of bagworms.
If you notice defoliation or yellowing in your evergreens, taking a closer look at the limbs may reveal bagworms.
These vicious insects attack several species of bush or tree, but are mostly seen on conifers such as cyprus, pine, juniper, arborvitae, cedar, and spruce. They’re referred to as bagworms since when the larvae feed on trees and plants, they enclose themselves in cocoon-like bags made from leaves, twigs, and silk.
When in the bag, a female bagworm lays over 900 eggs, raising your bagworm issue to a dangerous infestation quickly. The worst part is that your issue might go undetected until too late since these bags take on the appearance of conifer cones.
If you have a bad case of bagworms, follow the information below to eliminate them.
If you see just a couple of bagworms, you might have stopped the infestation early enough that you can efficiently regulate the situation by handpicking the bags off the trees and putting them in a bucket of soapy water to drown the larvae.
Sometimes it’s not possible to handpick bagworms, especially when you have tall trees. But if you regulate the power of animals that feed on bagworms, you might still be able to regulate the number of bagworms.
An insecticide with diazinon, malathion, or carbaryl can eliminate your bagworm issue if used on trees and bushes when the worms are still young. Schedule an appointment with an expert from Hickory Tree Care to spray in late spring, right after the bagworms have hatched and start to feed. Make sure the tree care specialist follows the insecticide manufacturer’s instructions.
Regardless what time of year you find bagworms, don’t wait to begin crafting a plan to get rid of them. Left unchecked, they can totally defoliate and destroy your yard’s bushes, trees, or hedges.
Although woolly aphid populations barely get big enough to hurt most plants, the curled and distorted leaves they create and leave behind are unappealing. It is important to know how to get rid of aphids.
What are Woolly Aphids?
Woolly aphids are one of 3500 various types of aphids which might infest your garden. These aphids vary mostly in appearance from others.
Like all aphids, these pests are tiny, typically growing no bigger than a quarter inch long. Like their many cousins, they create damage to plants by draining out the sap.
Woolly aphids are usually green or blue in color, and somewhat fuzzy. Their covering of a white, waxy, material gives them some shelter against the elements, and in some instances against pesticides.
Much like other sorts of aphids, these sap-sucking insects are little. Woolly aphids look fuzzy because of the waxy and white material that covers their body. These insects use two hosts: one for feeding in summer and one for overwintering and laying eggs in the spring.
Woolly Aphid Damage
Aphids usually feed in groups. They can observed feeding on buds, bark, foliage, twigs, branches, and roots. Damage is detected by yellowing foliage, branch dieback, the curled and twisted leaves, bad plant growth, or the development of cankers on the roots or branches.
Sometimes, wax accumulation is seen along with the sticky, sweet residue referred to as honeydew. Also, plants might get covered with sooty mold.
Woolly Aphid Control
Though this does not typically damage or affect the plant itself, getting rid of the aphids and their honeydew will aid in regulating the sooty mold. Since extreme woolly aphid attacks rarely happen, there is little need for woolly aphid pesticide.
Typically, their numbers remain low with natural predators like hover flies, lacewings, ladybugs, and parasitic wasps. If desired, you can spot treat where the aphids are plentiful using neem oil or insecticidal soap. Also, you can trim out and kill infected branches.
When chemical control is believed to be necessary, a woolly aphid insecticide like acephate can be used to regulate these insects. Contact Hickory Tree Care to apply a woolly aphid insecticide treatment if necessary.
The life cycle of a magnolia scale insect is controlled by a long period during which it looks just like a bump on a log. However, don’t be fooled by their appearance. These insects are sucking fluids out of your plants, necessitating you to seek a magnolia scale treatment.
Due to their appearance, folks are frequently caught off-guard when they finally see evidence of an infestation. Furthermore, they might misdiagnose the situation as a mold or ant problem.
Life Cycle of the Magnolia Scale
Scale insects go through stages called "instars."
The insect overwinters at the tips of the tree's limbs in what is referred to as the "nymph" instar. These nymphs begin feeding in spring and get to maturity in the middle of the summer. This is when mating happens.
Later, the females give birth to existing young insects (crawlers) in August or September. Afterwards, the crawling ends, and they will adhere to the twigs on which overwintering takes place. This brings the process full circle.
Spray with Insecticide
For a magnolia scale treatment to be effective, you have to spray the insecticide at the right time in the insect's life cycle (mainly, at the crawler stage). These pests are more susceptible to sprays at that specific time in their life cycle than at other periods. That time is usually late summer.
Once the scale insect goes past the crawler stage in its life cycle, the exoskeleton toughens, making it less susceptible to contact insecticides.
Because the pests are at the crawler stage in July and August, that is the greatest time to spray. If you want to try an organic, eco-green insecticide, use neem oil. Reach out to Hickory Tree Service to arrange for an expert to apply a magnolia scale treatment to your trees.
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